Spring Flower.

Friday, February 17, 2012

Elegant Rage - The Evolution of Lingerie and Corsetry

Thursday, February 16, 2012
Vintage Fashion Archive.
Superb Vintage Lingerie Film from 1950's Germany celebrating the evolution of women's underwear whilst promoting the famous German brand of Felina Corsets.One of the first post modern lingerie companies in the world and one of the oldest running !

Make-up History - Hazel Bishop's 1950's Stay-on Lipsticks

Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Make-up History - Hazel Bishops Stay-on Lipstick .
The First Permanent lipstick invented by a forgotten genius.

When you think of make-up innovations, you immediately call to mind Max Factor, and rightly so.
He did after all invent lip gloss. Lip make-up was until after World War Two, still considered a beauty
accessory, rather than a necessity. However, by 1950, a survey found that two thirds of women wore lipstick all day.
Keeping it in place of course was a nightmare. Women were spotted everywhere, hurriedly re-applying their lippy at bus-stops, train stations, waiting for taxis or standing in elevators. It was - needless to say - stressful.
but one woman, and it's probable that it could only have been a woman, came up with the answer in 1949.
Her name was Hazel Bishop.
Born in 1906, she graduated from the Bergen School for Girls in Jersey City, New Jersey., attended evening classes in Columbia University and became an organic chemist.
In the 1930s she took a job as an assistant in a dermatological laboratory at the College of Physicians and Surgeons. There she worked with A.B. Cannon, who, with her help, would later launch the hypoallergenic cosmetics line known as Almay!
During the war, she worked for the Standard Oil Development Company and quickly advanced through its ranks, specializing in aviation fuels for long flight bomber missions.
Her dream of developing stay-on lipstick began during the war years, and while working a day job, she
spent evenings, conducting hundreds of experiments, until she finally nailed it.

Working with dyes that stained color into the skin, mixing them with oils and wax, she finally had the mix she
was looking for. The product was ready for launch by 1949.The main ingredient was bromo acid.
Of course today, bromo acid is not used anymore due to its skin corrosive quality, but those days, science
was the ruler of all thinking, and there were no regulations on ingredients.

Bishop had nevertheless produced the worlds first lipstick that stayed on till you took it off ! Quickly forming a company, using the business acumen she had learned from her parents, she launched her lipstick, with the help of Raymond Spector, an advertising executive she had brought in as a financing partner, Sales by Hazel Bishop Inc of the new stay-on, non-smear lipstick increased from $49,527 in 1950 to $10,100,682 in 1953 - an incredible achievement.

The Stay-on lipstick took the world by storm.
 “It stays on YOU,” declared the ads for Hazel Bishop’s smudge-proof lipstick, “… not on Him!”

With Spectors guidance, the company began an aggressive TV campaign, despite the fact that the medium
was in black and white.Such was the impact, the leading lipstick brand at the time, Revlon,introduced an ‘Indelible-Creme Lipstick’ in 1951  followed by a ‘Non-Smear Lipstick’ in 1953.
With such an explosion into the make-up industry, it seemed as if Hazel Bishop was ready to take on the
big names in cosmetics. Sadly it was not to be, at least not for its founder.
Unhappy with the direction the company was being led, by its chief executive and principle shareholder, Raymond Spector, she lost all control of her baby in a lawsuit.
Her cash settlement was $310,000, and she lost the right to use her own name.

Bishop often asserted that women have an understanding of cosmetology that a male chemist could never have ! She advised women to " accentuate their most attractive feature - the mouth ", and - oddly for such an independent woman, maintained that " young women's looks were more important than whatever drive and intelligence they might possess ." Strange.
Perhaps, her point was to assert your feminine power !

Bishop never ran a successful cosmetics firm again, but became an expert in stocks and shares in the cosmetics industry.
In the 1980s she became the Revlon Chair of Cosmetics Marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Ironically, it was with Revlon lipsticks that Hazel Bishop Inc had locked horns back in 1953.
She passed away in 1998 at the ripe old age of 92. Glamourdaze salutes this innovative woman - Hazel Bishop.
For more on the History of cosmetics check out Cosmetics and Skin
Found this funny Wacky Package version of Hazel Bishop here.

Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.
Beautifully restored and illustrated 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and soon 1960's make-up guides as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

Vintage 1940's Beauty Secrets - Hair and Face Contour.

Original 1940's Hair and Make-up secrets from Vintage Make-up Guides.
All 1940's hairstyles, were generally swept away from the forehead. The correct make-up contour to match this look is imperative.
So let's look at the four female face shapes [ you'll be one of these ! ] and how
to bring out your inner 1940's woman!
The Round face | The Long and Narrow face | The Oval face | The Square face

1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Round Face.

  • 1940's Rouge for Round face.
Wear your coloring high on your cheekbone, and blend if off toward the temple and hairlines. Keep it away from nose, under eye and jaw.

  • 1940's Lips for the Round face.
Accent the cupid's bow, but in drawing the lower lip, " square " the outline with a firm outgoing line from the corners to the center of the lip in a reverse cupid's bow.

  • 1940's Hairstyle for the Round face.
Wear the hair high to counteract roundness, using a soft wave, curls, or a pompadour. The back may be worn up in a vertical bun or in a chignon.

1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Long, Narrow Face.

  • 1940's Rouge for Long faces.
Place the apex of color directly under the cheekbones, and blend it outward toward the ear and hairline. Keep rouge away from nose, eyes and lips.

  • 1940's Lips for Long / Narrow faces.
Eliminate any point at the cupid's bow, as this tends to elongate the face. For a more generous and rounder look to the mouth, build up the size of the upper lip slightly, accentuating the corners.

  • 1940's Hairstyle for Long faces.
Wear the hair parted, in the center, or with a three-quarter part, keep it flat on top. let it fall in soft waves at the side of the face and in the back.

1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Oval face.

  • 1940's Rouge for an Oval face.
Place your rouge just below the cheekbones, with the apex of color in the hollow under the cheeks. Blend it upward over the cheek toward the temple, ear and hairline.

  • 1940's Lips for Oval faces.
Follow the natural lipline and draw the corners of the mouth clearly to bring out the full, natural curves.

  • 1940's Hairstyles for the Oval Face.
As the oval face is the happy medium of all face types [ lucky you ! ] practically all hairstyles are becoming. For the very best vintage hairstyling tips and video tutorials, you cannot beat the amazing Lisa Freemont Street.

1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Square Face.

  • 1940's Rouge for the Square face.
Place the apex of coloring on, but no lower than the cheekbone, and blend upward to the temple.

  • 1940's Lips for the Square face.
Accent the cupid's bow for the upper lip. For the lower lip, make a reverse cupid's bow for center, and draw an in-curving line for the ends. This somewhat wavy lipline will draw attention away from squareness of the jaw. it really works !

  • 1940's Hairstyle for the Square Face.
Wear the hair in an upsweeping wave, but with rounded effect.

For more Vintage Beauty tips - try Make-up & Beauty - 1940's Guides.
Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.
Packed to the brim with beautifully restored and illustrated guides from the 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and very soon the 1960's - as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

Check out Lisa Freemont Street for her truly brilliant and entertaining vintage hairstyling video tutorials.

text - copyright Glamourdaze 2012

Vintage 1940's Make-up Guides - Introduction

Study your face closely ...analyze your every feature deliberately, and then classify it as an asset or a liability. When you have done this, you need only an everyday knowledge of cosmetics, and a basic understanding of face types to achieve the 1940's make-up effect which is most becoming to you.

You cannot actually change the shape of your face, but with careful arched contouring and with rouge areas strategically placed, you can either disguise or emphasise it's shape and structure so that the tout ensemble is both pleasing to the eye and reassuring to the soul.

Begin your make-up with the proper foundation ... a light fluffy cream - if your skin is dry, a lotion - if your skin is oily, and regular face cream if your skin is normal.
There are excellent products on the market today from which to select the best suited to your skin. So go out and have an enjoyable day browsing.
When you buy cosmetics, first satisfy yourself concerning the maker's name [ we recommend Mac or that old reliable Max Factor, for the smooth creamy 1940's style glide of their foundations and powders ].

Face Powder

First select your shade of face powder and be sure that it blends with your natural skin coloring - and that does not mean merely the coloring on your nose [ which is lightest ] but the skin of your face and neck. As a rule, it is best to stick to a light textured powder in order to flatter your skin the most.

1940's Make-up Contouring with Rouge !

In the next tutorial - we'll look at creating that perfect 1940's face shape - to go
with your fabulous up-do hairstyles.

This is an excerpt from Make-up & Beauty - 1940's Guides.
Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.

Packed to the brim with beautifully restored and illustrated 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and soon 1960's make-up guides as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

♥s for Valentine's Day.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Spend this day with those who make your lives worthwhile.
Sweets and kisses to all!


Our Glass - Retro 1940's Fashion Film

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Beautiful film celebrating 1940's and 1950's iconic fashion styles.

The plot centers round two women trapped in a 1940's time warp, moving about their house, going about their daily routine of applying make-up, dressing, kitchen etc. Well worth a watch.
LILOGI - the folks who created this film, describe themselves as online celebrants of creative fashion. A glamorous era that will always remain with us.

Vintage Fashion Report - 1930's Swimwear

Vintage Fashion Report - 1930s Swimwear.
As originally reported in 1936 fashion newsreel.

1930's Swimsuit 1.

The very latest thing, a printed linen halter top with navy wide ribbed body.
and over this is worn cape and hood.

1930's Swimsuit 2.

A One piece Bahama, and over this a heavy terry cloth robe with flared skirt.

1930's Swimsuit 3.

A newspaper print suit with short coat and detachable hood.
Something to look over while you stretch out on the sand!
1930's Swimsuit 4.
Bahama blue swimsuit with white tubular straps and trim.

1930's Swimsuit 5.
A blue ribbed stitch M.Y.O [ make your own ] with white sun-back halter top.
Lady - how this would have shocked your great grandmother !!

1930's Swimsuit 6.
A nautical swimsuit of sharkskin with fitted coat over a navy and white polkadot silk blouse.

1930's Swimsuit 7.
Striped M.Y.O with separate plain colored wrap-around skirt.
That's all !!

text -copyright Glamourdaze 2012.

You can buy beautiful retro swimwear direct from Modcloth

Download beautifully restored vintage beauty guides from Vintage Make-up Guide